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Romantic Retreat - A River Runs Through It
 By Cathy Summerlin
The Tennessee River flows through the heart of Chattanooga as surely in 2008 as it did when Cherokee Chief John Ross arrived in 1816. In the intervening years a battle raged above the clouds on a November day in 1863 and the famous Choo-choo came to town.
During the 1980s, Chattanoogans came together and decided to plan their dream city. The result blends past and present in ways that are outstanding for visitors and the home folks as well. The downtown layout encourages walking and, as you might expect, the riverfront is a good place to start.
The Tennessee Aquarium follows the journey of a raindrop on a mountaintop in East Tennessee to the Gulf of Mexico – and beyond to the waters of the world. Along the way playful river otters and sparkling brook trout join birds, butterflies, even magical-looking leafy seadragons. In 2008, a new boat adventure through Tennessee’s “Grand Canyon” with an Aquarium naturalist promises to entertain, educate and preserve.
Perched on an 80-foot bluff overlooking the river, the Bluff View Art District at the corner of High Street and East Second Street offers a wonderful assortment of sensory experiences.
It’s hard to imagine a more romantic spot for dinner than the Back Inn Café. The food is delectable and the terrace is perfect in summer. As evening falls, the river below, the stars above, and the gleaming lights of the Hunter Museum of American Art are dazzling. Stroll down to the River Gallery Sculpture Garden where a bronze Icarus seems ready to fly away in an instant. Some of the art is on permanent display, but other pieces are for sale in the River Gallery where you’ll find outstanding work in a wide variety of media.
If you’ve arranged to stay at the Bluff View Inn, the collective name for the three classic bed and breakfasts in the district, you’re in for a treat. As the sun rises, the scent of fresh bread fills the air near the bakery. At Rembrandt’s, Bluff View’s coffee house, the glass cases brim with fresh French pastries, tea cookies, and delicious hand-dipped chocolates. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. A few steps away, Tony’s Pasta Shop serves tasty fresh pastas, sauces, sandwiches, and rustic breads as well as wine and beer for lunch and dinner.
Stroll across High Street to see the fabulous collection of glassware Anna Safley Houston once kept in her barn. Across East Second Street, the Hunter Museum’s art collections are housed in three buildings, the most recent a gleaming tower of glass, metal, stone and wood completed in 2006.
The 19th century Walnut Street pedestrian bridge links the Bluff View Art District and the Aquarium District on the south side of the river with shopping, restaurants, and Coolidge Park on the north shore. Drivers take the Market Street Bridge.
Down the hill on Broad Street, the Chattanoogan is a classic urban resort hotel complete with day spa and an upscale restaurant that has an open exhibition kitchen and a not-to-be-missed Sunday brunch.
The train no longer runs on Track 29, but restored Victorian train cars house bedrooms and dining rooms at the Holiday Inn Chattanooga Choo-choo complex on Market Street. The 1908 terminal station remains one of the city’s landmarks and serves as the lobby.
So, this summer take time to explore both shores of the river in Chattanooga. You’re going to love what you find.
Chattanooga Area Convention and Visitors Bureau; 800-322-3344 or chattanoogafun.com
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